Every year we take a rest day in Sarchu and since 2011 have taken the hour and half long walk to the remote village of Chumigiarsa. I love returning as I have got to know some of the wonderful people who live in this very extreme environment. I can only at marvel at their resilience and ability to survive in these really harsh conditions. This year I was particularly looking forward to seeing Padme who I have known for all, of her 3 years and Dom Dom, probably the oldest man in the village. I could tell from a distance that this was little Padme and her mom in the fields.
I always bring photographs that I have taken from the year before and this time, also a new dress for Padme.
Dorjay and his Ama in 2012
And Padme in her new dress.
Dorjay and Padme’s meme-le (grandad)
Humbled with a cup of cardamom tea so generously offered with biscuits from Tenzin’s spartan kitchen, we continued to the end of the village in search of Dom Dom .We followed the soothing irrigation channels in an otherwise harsh desert and took time to appreciate the purpose and place that everything has in this village.
Yak and cow dung collected and dried for the very long and freezing winters, minus 20 to 30 degrees are not uncommon.
I spotted some figures (and a yak!). Dom Dom would usually be in the fields too….
Working together, everyone is involved in the barley harvest. I recognise Dom Dom’s friend from last year.
Dom Dom and Mutup in 2012. Dom Dom had gone, he had died about 1mth before. I was taken by surprise and saddened at the thought that he was no more. What had happened? I later found out he had been taken to hospital in Leh for some months and then returned to Chumigiarsa and died a week later. I felt relieved that he had at least died in his home but shuddered to think of how such a gentle and earth-bound man had handled the foreigness of being in a hospital so far of away of anything he knew. While I felt sad, his friends reminded me that in Buddhism death isn’t as harsh a place at we make it seem. He had been reborn into another life most certainly.
Remembering Dom Dom Namgyal in 2011 – my favourite photo, with Caroline. Although we had very little conversation he was always a humourous and delightful soul!
Dom Dom’s friend, Tsering Mutup and his wife Tsering Diskit.
A family photo for another return trip one day: Mutup, Diskit and son, Stanzin.
My final visit was to find Tenzin (11) and Renzin (9), two brothers who lived with their Ama in the truck stop of Sarcchu. Tenzin and his Ama, Tsering Tsemo were fortunately there. Renzin was at school 1 day bus ride away in Manali. And poor Tenzin was ‘house bound’ due to a recent op on his lame leg which had been reset in plaster. All I had for him were some EnviroKids magazines, which was at least some entertainment for a few hours. His face : shear delight. A humbling sight for all the spoiled and indulged of this world.
Tsering and Tenzin outside their truckstop cafe ‘K2’ in 2012.
Goodbye sweet Padme, I hope to see you again …
For previous entries of this village and their ingenious sustainable practices as well as to see how Padme has grown see:
https://bridgetsbikeblog.wordpress.com/2012/09/24/meeting-old-and-new-friends-on-manali-leh-highway/
https://bridgetsbikeblog.wordpress.com/2011/12/19/himalayan-villages-chumikgiarsa-at-4000m/
About Bridget Ringdahl
mad about cycling mad about our furry friends mad about green living
Once again awesome photographs! It is so wonderful, I cannot believe it – thank you! Whenever I open you blog, there is only one great wish that comes to my mind…
Thanks Tobias you enthusiasm is appreciated! My wish would be, to have you play your guitar for my friends in Chumigiarsa!
Well, I would love to! Who knows, some day it may happen ;)
beautiful and touching, the humanity that binds us all. I wonder what it must feel like when “foreigners” visit Ladakh? I wonder if it feels like being visited by Aliens! so beautiful to see the delight on the kids faces and it must be awesome to know that you have made a deep connection with so many. Thanks for sharing :) xxxx
Wow, the images and story stopped me in my busy tracks. Long for those people, open spaces and feeling of time being still. Bridget, thank you for sharing and for inspiring me.
Bridget I am so glad you are still doing this trip… it does remind me of 2 great wishes though (conflicting wishes as it turns out): to have gone on that Nepal trip with you in 2007, and to bring my 2 amazing daughters (who probably would not exist if I’d gone on that Nepal trip) on a trip with you to Leh… isn’t life a trip?!
with love, j