
The village of Chumathang - note the gompa (monastry in the background) always perched on a crag above a village, as if keeping a watchful eye . Chortens decorated with prayer flags and mani stones, a symbol of buddhism

The Indus was bulging at the seems, as it were. The usual pea-green colour was now a muddy brown mass of water. It was easy to see how the cloudburst and abnormally high rainfall had taken its toll, flood plain fields were no longer, while the road clung to the 'edge'.

The road sign humour continued but took on a more tender tone further on ' Let your heart spillout affection and care' and more ominously as we cycled through a military zone, one read 'Paradise lies in the shadow of the swords'.

First views of Ladakhi villages along the Indus, splashes of green a stunning contrast against the sky and stark toppled mountains.

Riding downstream doesnt mean riding downhill. This section was every bit as challening as getting over one of the 5000m passes. We had a head wind and cooking temperatures.

Prayer flags to greet us at the village of Chumathang. We found a perfect campsite in the back of local garden.






