Himalayan villages: Chumikgiarsa at 4000m

Chumikgiarsa is situated along the wide sarchu plains just after the dhabba stop of Sarchu. It is however mostly viewed from a distance as the wide stepped river and plain keep it at more than an arms length. For the past 2 years I have always been very curious to visit this village that would appear as little dots of houses along a beautifully eroded river plain step. This year we fortunately spent a rest day on the sarchu plains which enabled me and a few of the more energetic others to find the bridge and hike the 1hr30 to this typical Ladakhi village which is possibly in one of the most remote areas along the Manali Leh highway. It is only accessible by foot and it would still take the villagers at least most of the day to get to the nearest town (Keylong).

Chumikgiarsa village as seen from the Manali-Leh Highway, although it looks relatively close to get to, it requires back tracking to the one and only bridge, and then an hour and a bit hike. (Although the river looks possible to cross, I can assure you it isn't we investigated that option!)

We walked alongside the beautifully braided river, highlighted with illuminous green moss. Despite the intense aridity springs sprung from the rocks and is essentially the reason why Chumikgiarsa was built along this ancient flood plain.

Tenzin and her daughter Padme were washing clothes in a wooden bucket outside her simple, mud brick house when she stopped to greet us and invited us in for tea.

Tenzin's simple and functional adobe house. Note the dry composting toilet in the foreground

Baby Padme. Her amaa served us tea and also offered us some biscuits, a humbling gesture from someone who has so little in material terms. It was clearly the only form of provision she had on the shelf apart from staples like tsampa (barley).

A wooden pail for collecting water and milking yaks. Barley fields in the background are irrigated by elaborate channels of glacial melt and spring water.

Another typical homestead in the village of around 16 households. Juniper and brush are collected during the summer months and stored on the flat roofs for winter fuel and insulation.

An almost self sustaining village, all houses are built with locally made sun dried mudbricks.

Some of the few imports or rather oil barrels dumped and left behind by the road builders. A use for almost anything can be found, here they are used as a barrier to keep the sheep in during the night.

Dear Dom Dom Namgyal spotted us from his fields and ambled along to come and greet us. He proudly showed us his gatherings of seabuckthorn berries and was very keen to be photographed even pulling out his tourquoise beads around his neck so that they could be seen. Note his yak skin boots.

Caroline shows him the photo. I look forward to returning next time and handing him his own printed copy.

Beautiful summer flowers amongst the barley and wheat, these channels made by the villagers, often cover many kilometres for irrigation purposes.

Another use for the old oil barrels, diverting channelled water!

....and my favourite of them all, a sled made from an old barrel. Hard to believe that the villagers live here all year round at 4000m, the winters must be truly freezing and the highway is closed - Chumikgiarsa is isolated completely.

Each house has its own composting toilet, a very simple yet effective way of dealing with human waste. The dry conditions result in a rapid breakdown of the waste rendering it useful for the next spring when the night soil is used on the fields. Absurdly water borne sanitation has crept into the main towns, a completely unsustainable polluting solution in an extremely water scarce part of the planet.

Sustainable technologies like this greenhouse are appropriate and enable to growing period for leafy vegetables to be extended by another six weeks. Solar cookers and water heaters are seen in some of the villages nearer to the main towns.

Post pea harvest. Nothing is wasted, even these pea husks are stored and kept for animal fodder during the long winter.

Threshing round, once the wheat and barley have been harvested, yaks are tethered to the stick and stamp the seed free from the husk. The growing season is only 4mths long, all Ladakhis are able to grow everything they need to keep them going for the next 8mths.

Village children entertain themselves with vivid imaginations - no toxic disposable plastic toys to be found!

What a privilege to have had a glimpse into not too often visited, Chumikgiarsa, humbling and inspirational.

Himalayan villages: Old Manali

One of my favourite things about bike trips is that access to small, quaint and often forgotten about villages is a daily occurrence as you aren’t simply whizzing by in the bubble of a bus and can stop at any point to meet the ‘real’ people. Old Manali and surrounding villages offer some interesting insights into the daily lives of tribes of Himachal Pradesh. The other nice thing is that you actually don’t need a bike to get to them, just a good pair of walking legs and an umbrella!

Only a little walk away from the tourist main street lies the 'real' old manali, which interestingly few tourists actually ever get to. A series of quaint villages built onto the valley slopes of the Beas river are a delight to explore and are once again a lesson in sustainability. This village was a lovely 5km cycle along a bumpy road past waterfalls and apple orchards.

A typical homestead of old Manali. Finely hand carved wooden balconies and slate stoned roofs all with a stone courtyard for washing, threshing, playing, fixing bicycles and tethering animals

Upstairs is residential and downstairs for the animals and storing food for the winter

Almost every home has its own handloom for weaving the famous shawls of the Beas valley

I love all the nooks and crannies in these villages, all sorts of interesting artifacts, junk and these traditional instruments lie around waiting to be discovered.

Side by side, modern with traditional - sometimes its not only the cows that are parked in the courtyards.

The design is always so practical - roof tops for storing and drying things out on, as well as support for a rambling pumpkin plant. Wood neatly stacked for the freezing snowy winters.

Apart from the terraced fields and apple orchards on the outskirts of the village, each homestead has its own vegetable garden for quick and easy access to some greens.

Special attention is given to the details around the doorways.

Besides being favourite socialising spots, the balconies make excellent 'under cover' clothes lines particularly during the summer which are typically very wet and humid. Note the more modern and favoured concrete style houses in the background which are slowly replacing the traditional ones.

...and such cherubic children and friendly villagers!

No words for this angelic Manali munchkin!

What more could a cow ask for - Manali is superbly green and lush all summer long! (Note the swastika is an ancient symbol for good luck which seen in many places all over India, unfortunately stigmatized when it was adopted by the nazis.)

Himalayan Hounds revisited

I consider myself to be a dogmother. No matter how pedigreed or ‘mongrolled’ a dog, I simply cannot resist giving those I meet en route, a little TLC. This usually entails a good pat, dog chat and something to eat. I often wish I had a stash of Hills dog food stowed away in my bar bag, but good old local Indian biscuits are always happily woofed back. Its not just ‘dog’ biscuits, I am always collecting everyone’s leftovers from lunches, dinner or breakfasts into my ‘doggy’ bag. So if its a good day it could be a couple of boiled eggs and chapati or some french toast for whatever hound I should meet along the lonely, Himalayan highways. Interestingly most of them look in pretty good shape, surviving off the trash, that’s in the towns of course. If there aren’t any towns to scrounge off, life must be truly hard as there really isn’t much nutrition above 3000m. One thing is for sure, these hounds aren’t fussy and are vegetarians (not out of choice of course!), possibly even enjoying chillies, as all Indian food is always heavily spiced!

A reincarnation? Just before we left for India I was very sad to loose a dear friend Noche Sanchez, a very handsome black lab, and a year before him, Noche's friend Oso Sanchez, a short brown dog. While enjoying a fabulous sandwich at the German Bakery in Manali, this little guy befriended me and ended up with half my sandwich. There was something more significant: he was a combination of both Noche and Oso - short and sleek, so I called him Noso!

How could anyone possibly ignore such cuteness? He earned himself a packet of Good Day butter biscuits!

After a blissful descent down Rohtang pass, we stopped for our lunchboxes at Koksar police check-point. I skulked around waiting for the groups leftovers and was happy to collect 3 boiled eggs which I duelly popped into this astonished old boy's mouth!

In the middle of almost nowhere, this dear young female was so happy to just have a pat and some kindness shown. I worry what happens once the dhabba at Bharatphur closes down in the winter...

She wanted to join me but was too afraid to cross this bridge which made a loud clanging whenever anyone crossed it

Most dogs in India are strays, some however are 'pets' but in a very different sense. This poor pup lives in a remote village on the Sarchhu plains and is unfortunately chained up next to the composting toilet for most of his life.

We were joined by snowy and her handsome friend at our campsite in Pang.They enjoyed a variety of leftovers including veg chowmein, pancakes and pasta!

Handsome was a lot shyer and kept his distance but kept guard all night and most of us awake with barking

Firm friends: Snowy and Handsome followed us up the 8km climb to the Moray plains. If I could bring them back with me I would.

Cowering for a few 'Good Day' biscuits

City dogs of Leh

Street sweepers and sleepers of Leh

Thiksey monastry pup

The Ladakh Animal Society together with Vets without borders are doing an amazing job of sterilising all dogs in and around Leh.Since 2006 some 7000 odd dogs have been sterilised. The 'gangs' of dogs are rounded up and taken back to the basic clinic for their operations and then returned to their territories a few days later.

Fellow South African Joanne Lefson and Oscar her famous Ahound the World traveller have not only done tons to support the adoption of shelter-bound dogs on their Ahound the World Tour (www.worldwooftour.com), but have also set up a donkey sanctuary in Leh. More on that later, but I appreciated this painted stone I found at the sanctuary, it was as if Oscar had painted this stone in recognition of my dogmother efforts.

 

Blooming passes

Whether wheezing up or whizzing down one of the mega Himalayan passes, I simply cant help myself and stop for flowers. Of course I don’t need much encouragement to have a break on an ascent, always nice to catch my breathe and get up close to some pretty little blooms, but on the down though, requires a lot more discipline. Here are some of my favourites, unfortunately I have found it hard try to ID them, if you know what they are please comment!

Pretty little whites on the way up the monsoon thrashed Rohtang pass at around 3000m

A campsite in fields of summer flowers as it were (stilll on the wet side of the Rohtang)

These beautiful burgundy blooms are widespread between 3000m -4000m. From a distance they give mountains a red tinge, it was only on close inspection that I found it was these little flowers!

These pink 'rock' daisies seem to be most abundant at the 4000m marker. I noticed lots of these at on the Baralacha-la and the Khardung-la passes.

One of my favourites. Just when you think that nothing pretty could possibly grow in a dry and high altitude desert, these blues were a welcome sight for me as I plodded up the highest motorable road in the world (the Khardung-la Pass).Unlike its other altitude cramped counterparts, this blue anenome-like flower doesn't hold back, bearing beautiful full flowers between 4600 - 5300m - amazing!

Simply sweet

The robust rhubard (I mentioned in the previous entry). Like many of these high altitude plants it is considered vulnerable.

Seabuckthorn - this indigenous berry grows in the lower dry valleys and is known for its high levels of vitamin C. It is harvested and usually turned into a lovely orange juice. They are rather tart to taste!

Rambling pink roses are a striking contrast against the dry orange valleys. Here they have fruited into equally stunning rosehips.

As tempting as it is to continue non-stop down this amazing descent from 5600m to 3600m over 40km (Khardung-la pass) - I always stop, even for only a minute, to savour the views and the blooming pass.

The Nakee-la and Lachalunga-la passes

Once over the Rohtang, the wet forested pass at 4000m and Baralacha-la just under 5000m, the road climbs out of the Sarcchu plains up the double pass of the Nakee-la (4950m) and the Lachalung-la (5060m).

On the way up the infamous 21 'Gata loops', roadside humour keeps the spirits high on this 23km ascent from 4250m to 4980m to the Nakee-la

I am always impressed by the 'fields' of wild rhubard that I have seen each year growing in a very particular spot at around 4800m (on the vulnerable list of himalayan plants). Below a squadron of Royal Enfield riders make their way up.

Carlos and Aulo enjoy views from the cairn strewn false summit of the Nakee-la, before dropping 200m down to start climbing again to the true pass.

Despite two broken ribs (falling while taking photos) Anthony labours on, happy to see the prayer flags no doubt!

Descending reluctantly 200m down to Whiskey Nullah (only to then climb back up), however a lunchtime snack stop serenaded by a french motorbike rider playing his banjo helped to restore failing humour and energy levels.

A triumphant descent! Caroline rightfully very pleased with herself after a 7k slog up to 5065m of the Lachalung-la!

Dots of cyclists: After 30 odd k's of a hard grind, we could all enjoy the blissful descent down the other side.

More downhill treats: sighting of the Blue headed himalayan sheep or Bharal

Gateway to Pang: Granite slabs rise like fortresses on either side.

Ever changing and awe inspiring scenery all the way down the Lachalung-la: aeolian carved sandstone-scapes.

The team

Before I take you over the next pass, I will introduce you to this years team – both cyclists and support crew !

14 of us in total including carlos and myself. Charles from just down the road in the Dargle; behind Aulo the italian ragazzo from the south coast; next to him Mike from down under NZ; Alex (next to me) our biathlete and daily input of good humour; Ben our godsend bike mechanic and mygod son!; the spaniard; Caroline our good (physio) friend; Debbie and Viv from wine country; Anthony the tuffy who cycled with broken ribs for 6 days (and a vet) and Caroline with stamina! (Suzanne and Jo follow below).

Suzanne our movie maker, enjoyng a cuppa chai on the way up Rohtang.

...and Jo who did all her pre-himalayan hill training on a highway flyover in Dubai. She also went on to prove that it is much safer cycling in the landslide and earthquake prone himalayas. Soon after her return to Dubai a fellow cyclist crashed into her resulting in her fracturing her pelvis! (Ow!)

And without our fantastic back up crew, none of us would have made it. Inder Thakur, Lapkha Sherpa, Bhim Badur, Tamang Kishan, Teju Thakur, Sundar Thakur, Keshwa Rakesh. Thanks guys!

 

Keshwe was good at everything, but most of us will never forget his gentle wake-up calls of soft singing followed by a hot cup of steaming chai at the door of our tent every morning.

Team leader and good friend Inder

Lapka Sherpa from Nepal an accomplished moutaineer who has summitted Everest.

Tamang also a Nepali kancha from a village close to Kathmandu. I was chuffed to be able to chat away in the lingo I learned 10 years ago and even sang a few nepali folk songs together!

.....and Sundar, our fabulous chef. Together with his assistants they would provided us with not just camping food but an Indian gastronomic experience that none of us will ever forget. In the 10 days he cooked tirelessly for us not once did he produce the same dish, not only that, but every dinner we were spoiled with a choice of 5 dishes, of course we chose everything. Even at 4600m a chocolate banana cake was miraculously produced on a kerosene stove...to prove it the picture follows!

The choc-banana cake baked at 4600m in a campsite 1.5hrs walk from the nearest village! (Oh, it wasnt Carlos's birthday. HCA = Himalayan caravan adventure! )

Spoiled for choice - spring rolls, vege chowmein, spicey potatoes, palak panner, vege mix...

Sundar cooks up a storm at 4000 plus metres!

A campsite with a view

Campsites with astounding views are aren’t hard to come by in the Himalayas. The landscape is simply so overwhelming that almost every spot you choose to bed down for the night will offer views of crumpled mountain masses sprinkled with snow and high altitude flowers. Here are some of my favourite spots along the Manali Leh Highway.

The campsite at Patseo, 7km from the start of the Baralacha-la pass. A perfect spot beside the Chandra river with access to channelled glacial melt water.

A room with a view. Our dining tent overlooking the magical Kullu valley (enough to distract Alex and Ben from their breakfast).

Camping on the Sarcchu plains - a wilderness all to ourselves

Big skies at Tso Kar, a high altitude pan and home to many migratory bird sp like the bar headed geese and black necked cranes. At 4600m it feels as if you can touch the sky.

Campsite Tso Kar - meaning 'salt lake' , which is way in the distance beyond our tents. It is a treat to spot Kiang (wild ass) as well as munchkin marmots along the vast grassy expanse.

Mani stones - engraved with Tibetan prayers lie about in random walls and mounds in the grassy pastures of Tso kar (see campsite in the background).

Idyllic campsite at Pang after descending the 5030m Lachalung-la pass.

Although Shara village wasn't on our route this year, it's another of my favourites about 120km from Leh along the Indus River.

Sunset at Sarcchu (photo: A.van Tonder)

Baralacha-la (4900m) – the pass where many roads meet

The Baralacha-la pass literally means the pass where many roads meet -a crossroads of Ladakh, Lahual, Spiti and Zanskar regions and was part of an ancient trade route that has been used by travelers for centuries.

The two great rivers of Lahaul are also borne here, the Chandra and the Bhaga arising from snowfields on either side . Just below the summit lies Suraj tal (Sun lake), the source of the Bhaga.

Caroline and I happily at the top!

A spectacular descent down a valley of burnt oranges, burgandy, greens and greys

Before dropping down to the Sarcchu plains the road continues to weave its way through a geologist's chocolate box of amazing rocks and formations (photo: A. van Tonder)

The Passes – Rohtang (Rotties)

This is the third time I have been privileged enough to have cycled the legendary Manali-Leh highway, a roughly 600km most unsurfaced road which connects the foothills to the great crumpled mass of mountains called the himalayas. Each time I am, as amazed and in awe as the last. Instead of documenting this trip in a diary format I will rather highlight some aspects under different entries. Starting off with the passes….

The Rohtang pass sits just under 4000m and entails a climb from Manali (2000m) over 50km. This is so very different to the others along the Manali-Leh highway in that it receives the brunt of the monsoon resulting in a lush, forested ascent through veils of cloud.

We always break this ascent by camping at Marhi, leaving the final exhausting 15km to the summit for the next day. This usually entails some negotiating across landslides and hauling bike through the 'slurpy' quagmire.

Roads and rivers: Caroline enjoys a mud-free section

Jo sensibly prefers to portage (an almighty effort at 3500m), rather than slog around another clogged corner.

A light at the end of the Rohtang: clear skies and soaring for the summit.

A satisfying summit - views over Lahaul and the Chandrabhagga valley: clear views aren't always guaranteed, but one thing is for sure the descent is mostly mud-free.

A thrilling descent to Koksar

Anthony enjoying 20km of downhill down 'Rotties', Lahual. The name is derived from a Tibetan word meaning country of the gods.

Dehli’s Belly

A trip to the himalayas isn’t complete without a trip to Delhi, in fact its pretty difficult to avoid one of India’s delirious chaotic cities in the ‘getting there’. Spending time in Delhi’s belly is almost essential to truely appreciate the himalayan spectacle in every sense. The chaos, hectic humidity and noise pressure of 1.2 billion people only make the mountains seem even more beautiful when you eventually arrive after a 14hr bus trip. The sensory overload will leave you exhausted, overwhelmed, disgusted, delighted and definitly relieved that you don’t have to live there. Everytime I go back I appreciate Delhi that little bit more – its like a giant organism with each little cell performing some vital function.

Suitably adorned: a local single speed adorned in the finest marigold garlands

 

A cycle rickshaw drivers legs 'groan' under the weight of at least 10 little mites

 

Flower garland ladies

 

Standard staple: the quintessential Indian thali will set you back R10 - R15 and will be refilled until you've had your fill!

 

Please cover up: dressing gowns a must at the Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in India

 

Electrics to die for...

 

Rickshaw doubles up as a home and bed for many

 

For the less fortunate it is often the street

 

Our dear and dedicated doorman Deepak at the Hotel Sunstar Grand!